Genuine Genuíno’s Tuna and Fado Tunes

Feast your eyes on the pic, and how about taking five to graze on this edition of culinary info about Faial dining. Naco de Atum, anyone? As in, Tuna Steak? Here, here. Where, I hear? 

The fish restaurant at the beak of Horta’s picturesque Porto Pim, Genuíno’s! Named after the owner, Genuíno. Genuíno Alexandre Goulart Madruga, yes, he who sailed twice around the globe, single handedly.

Accordingly, the eatery is a showcase of relics, souvenirs, postcards, banknotes and memorabilia from the entrepreneur’s sails across the planet’s oceans.  Sit in a different spot therein every occasion possible, fork a ferreting eye at various trinkets displayed under glass at every table and on every supporting wall – satiate your culture roving Self. Food for inquisitiveness. You can get lost in piecing the curiosities mapping out Madruga’s travels. 

The exposition of globe-trot whatnot adds personality to the sober, clean-cut character of the space. Stunning views of Porto Pim bay beam through frames of broad windows. 

The heart and soul of the place is expressed, not only with all the care invested in the deco, but also the welcoming feeling when received at the door; and the genuine zeal Genuíno and his wife, Beatriz, share running the business. Now that an impression of the atmosphere has been lent, let’s tend to the tuna – and get that hot topic off the back burner. 

It is not customary for me to order any one thing on loop ad nauseam, ever. Traditionally my healthy appetite is akin to be allured by everything on the menu giving it the eye. And, eventually, I’ll indulge my way through the list.  For now, oh well, I’m a sucker for Naco de Atum – and I like it!  When I’m at Genuíno’s, that is what I order.  Admittedly, several delectable things from the menu I have tried and enjoyed very much. From others I hear how they relish theirs.  All the same. 

When it comes down to a thick chunk of hot grilled tuna steak, sizzling there, looking all seductive, dressed with trimmings around it; sweet ginger soy sauce and petit sesame seeds drizzled on top; caramelized char marks lined lusciously across it’s surface promising juicy contrasts in texture and temperature – as in, the hot and crispy outside versus the delicate, tender, somewhat cooler inside.  Can’t help it. So much happening! All a tingle. Don’t know about you, but I’m in. And taking my time. Tastebuds all a go on tour:  Navigating via senses, reaching uncharted waters, of the mouth. The variation of tempos it takes just letting the teeth sink on in, bit by bit. 

Thought I’d share that. Sharing the actual tuna meat… Not likely. 

Having focused on the meat of the matter, the potatoes and vegetables adorning the tuna are simply delicious. They really agree and accompany the fish just right, yet let us curb our hunger for descriptive detail of the side dish a bit.

Important is mentioning what takes place Friday nights at Genuíno’s restaurant: Fado!

Angie Reed
The emotion of Fado and Tuna in yours truly’s face.

Some love it. Others I have literally seen bolt! I was there one Friday night not expecting Fado – and I absolutely loved it. Tears rolled down my cheeks. My face wet. I was moved. Smiling. Drying teardrops with the very absorbent and elegant bordeaux napkin I found at my seat placing. Our table was virtually wedged in the very bosom of the music performance. I could have reached out and used the singers shawl to dry my weeping eyes. It felt a bit like being in the lime light whence I was sitting, the other guests were looking, but most likely just at the singers and not at waterworks I had no chance of hiding.  Anyway, I was in so much joy and gratitude for those lovely ladies and their gorgeous portrayal; I could not even vaguely care about my display of emotion at a table in a public space. Or where the fork my mascara was going. The male singer was absolutely marvelous too, I drank to him as well! They sang out their coração, and mine opened. 

The Naco arrived, and we all joined in concert. No further last words needed.

Angie Reed

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